Why can't I just cut the pattern sheet, you ask?
Because what if the size you thought was right for you is not going to fit? What if you want to make this dress for someone who isn't your same size? What if you decide to make this dress in a year and you lost/gained weight?
Tracing a pattern is time consuming and it can be tedious, especially for a beginner.
When I learnt to sew, this is one of the first things my mother taught me to do, and I'm so grateful for it! If you can afford to re-purchase the pattern multiple times, go ahead! Otherwise, let's see what I advice you to do.
When I learnt to sew, this is one of the first things my mother taught me to do, and I'm so grateful for it! If you can afford to re-purchase the pattern multiple times, go ahead! Otherwise, let's see what I advice you to do.
What do I use to trace my pattern?
Basically, whatever you are more comfortable with. I live in a country where sewing is not mainstream, so my options are quite limited, but everyone's situation is different.
What's easier to find for me, it's tracing paper that comes in big sheets at office supply stores (usually 100x150cm). This paper is thin, slightly transparent, so when you lay it on top of your pattern, you can see the lines underneath.
If you can find this kind of paper in form of rolls, it will make your job much easier. Other materials used are baking paper, paper tablecloth, exam table paper, Swedish tracing paper, just make sure they're transparent enough to see the pattern underneath.
If you found your own material, comment below and let us know!
Another option, although more time consuming, is to use carbon tracing paper (either regular or for seamstresses) with a tracing wheel. I sandwich some regular paper (I use the MÅLA paper from IKEA) between the pattern and the carbon paper and trace my lines with the wheel. This is just an alternative method, definitely not the fastest one.
Remember to mark on each piece its name, your size and to copy all the marks (notches, gathering lines, etc.).
What if I'm between sizes?
We mentioned before that this is totally normal. Just take a ruler and a pencil and draw a line that connects the sizes you need. For the skirt panel, draw a curved line (with the help of a French curve, if you want more accuracy) meeting the bigger size at the zipper end mark.
Once I have these new lines, I usually re-draw them with a crayon, so I don't get confused once it's covered by the tracing paper.
Choose the size of the darts according to their base: for example, I'm grading up the bodice from a size 38 at the bust to a size 40 at the waist. I'm going to trace a size 38 bust dart and a size 40 waist dart.
Choose the size of the darts according to their base: for example, I'm grading up the bodice from a size 38 at the bust to a size 40 at the waist. I'm going to trace a size 38 bust dart and a size 40 waist dart.
Once you traced all your pieces, cut them all (remember NOT to use your fabric scissors for this) and we are ready to cut our muslin!
I apologize for the poor quality of the photos in this post. To see clearer images on this subject, please check out Eléonore's post.
